A little background

John Knight has kindly allowed us to post this trip report on his solo paddle to Brickhill Bluff. 

John's article was published in Eastern Sea Kayaker,  Thistledown Group, Inc. , Edited by Dave & Mimi Campbell. and was posted here with Dave's permission.

I had the pleasure of meeting them all on one fu-fu-freeeezzzing night at Rainbow Springs FL during Dave Chafin and the Savannah Group of the GA Chapter of the Sierra Club's yearly Manatee Paddle.

Eastern Sea Kayaker is an invaluable source of information and a place to make yourself heard.

For subscription information contact Daveskayak@aol.com 

Cumberland Island by John Knight

Cumberland Island is one of the larger barrier island off the coast of Georgia. Archeologists theorize that it has been inhabited for several thousand years. Artifacts show that the Timuquan Indians were among the earliest inhabitants. Thomas Carnegie, brother of Andrew, built a mansion here in1884. Part of the island is still privately owned but most of it is a part of the national seashore. It came into very recent prominence as the site for JFK Jr’s wedding . Cumberland is also a favorite destination for area kayakers.

I had made trips to the island on the ferry before I began my kayaking life and was always fascinated by its remoteness and unspoiled nature. There are miles of hiking trails to explore, along with the ruins of the Carnegie mansion. The only access to the island is by boat and it was way up on my list of trips to make in my kayak, but I had to get more experience and training before I attempted the transit to Cumberland.

After several months of paddling I started making arrangements to go to Cumberland.

I was advised by the people at “Up the Creek” kayak outfitters in St. Mary’s Ga. that it was inadvisable to try to follow the ferry route in a kayak. The currents get very squirrly and unpredictable where the St. Mary’s river flows into Cumberland sound. They advised leaving from Crooked River state park and go across from there to Brickhill Bluff campsite on the northern portion of the island. I took their advice and made my reservations at the ranger station in St. Mary’s. I also made reservations at the Riverview Hotel. That is a really cool old hotel from the late 1800s. It is so much like an old western movie hotel you almost expect John Wayne to step out the next room. ( Hint: Reserve room 12. It is on a corner and you have a great view of the river.) 

I left Jacksonville late on a Sunday afternoon. I wanted to stay in St. Mary’s that night to get an early start the next morning. After checking in at the Riverview, I had a nice dinner in their restaurant, explored around St. Mary’s, then hit the sack. 

The first step in a trip to Cumberland is to check in at the ferry station across the street from the Riverview, pay the camping fee, and get a tent tag. I then drove up to Crooked River St. Park to launch. There is a $4 per night fee for secure parking which I paid after unloading my boat and camping gear. Getting all that “stuff” into the “itty bitty” boat was another problem, but after huffing and puffing and calling on past experience packing parachutes, it all went in.

The paddle down Crooked River was pleasant as I had timed the tides right to go out on the ebb. It took me through salt marshes and eel grass where there are lots of beach and wading birds. I also passed about as close to Kings Bay submarine base as I could get without being nabbed by security forces. Following the north bank of the river took me on the most direct channel to cross the intercoastal and enter the mouth of Brickhill River. 

About halfway down Crooked River, I heard a loud “pooosh” come from behind me. I turned to see what it was and saw only ripples. Then the “pooosh” came from next to me and there was a dolphin rolling. Then, another, and another. The pod escorted me all the way to the intercoastal. I really don’t know what those dolphins had against being photographed. Every time I took the camera out they disappeared. 

The rest of the trip to Brickhill Bluff was pretty much uneventful. I did see my new found dolphin friends (or another pod) in Brickhill River, but they were in a bigger hurry than I was so they left me. I had become accustomed to their company and missed them. From the Brickill River I could see large yachts and power boats in the intercoastal but I had my river to myself. 

I don’t know why they call the place Brickhill Bluff. There are no bricks, no hills, and not much bluff. The first clue that I had arrived was a group of back packers setting up camp. I practiced my oral piloting skills and shouted “is this Brickhill Bluff?”. They said it was so I beached the boat and got out for a stretch before setting up camp. One of the back packers pointed out a pile of oyster shells and said they were over 500 years old. They didn’t look that old to me. I think a bunch of Georgia fans came over to celebrate a victory after a Georgia - Florida football game with an oyster roast. That would explain why the shells did look sorta old.

I unloaded my boat and set up camp. Exploring around the area I scared up a group of wild pigs, and saw lots of “evidence“ of the horses that were left on the island by the Carnegies. Then the rain that had been threatening all day looked like it was really about to happen so I quickly cooked my supper and ate. About dark:30 the rain started. I grabbed a book and a flashlight and got in the tent, checked myself for moving freckles (ticks) and got in my sleeping bag. Some time later the combination of rain on the tent and an underwhelming book put me to sleep.

Left undisturbed, I usually wake up about 7:30 or 8:00. I guess that is about the time I woke up the next morning. My practice when paddling is to put my watch in the deck bag and it usually stays there until I unpack at home. The rain had stopped and birds were singing so I got out of the tent and made my breakfast; Parmalat milk over frosted miniwheats, and coffee. (I spent a lot of time trying to find an ice chest that would fit in my kayak I have found ways to do without.) While I was eating, something snorted at me from across the clearing. It was one of the feral horses that inhabit the island. He seemed to resent my intruding on his privacy and left in a huff. A few minutes later two more horses showed up to join me in breakfast. They had to settle for beach grass. I only brought enough miniwheats for me.

Packing a wet tent really sucks, but I had to do it. I wanted to hang out and let it dry but I had mistakenly limited my time on the island. I could either wait and have a rushed paddle or leave now and have a leisurely paddle. I had chosen the latter. 

The chart I had been given showed a channel through the salt marshes that wouldn’t really shorten the trip back but it would provide some variety. The chart showed a lot of dead end sloughs too. I would have to watch myself to find the channel. The mouth of the channel was easy to find. I was having some doubts about getting through to the other side but when a fishing boat passed me I felt reassured. It was a nice paddle with the hardwood forests of the island on one side and the salt marshes on the other. There were a lot of birds and gator sloughs. Occasionally I spooked gators that came pretty close to my boat. I decided that it would be a good idea to stay away from the bank so they had enough water to go under my boat rather than over it. I also saw some dolphins, three or four, that would swim real fast toward the bank and slide up on the mud. Then they would flop back in the water and do it again. I asked some knowledgeable people about that and they said they were chasing fish. I think they were practicing the mud slide event for the dolphin Olympics.

To make a long story short, I eventually explored every blind slough in that salt marsh and never did find the channel back to the river. Eventually, I gave up and backtracked to where I had started and went home from there. I was glad I had decided to leave early because looking for the channel was a real adventure. I saw a lot of birds, gators, and those nutty dolphins. I wouldn’t change a thing.

I had a very nice overnight to the island, but in retrospect, I will give myself several days on the island for my next trip over. There is too much to see and do on Cumberland for a one night stay. The paddle over and back is long and a bit unchallenging for me. I am used to twisty rivers and creeks. But, the unspoiled forests and wildlife on Cumberland are well worth it.